A winter weekend in Prague: What to eat, drink, see, and do
ft. market stalls, mulled mead, and magical memories
Prague in winter is a city wrapped in charm, history, and a little magic—just the right setting for a wintry weekend escape with friends. From the moment we arrived, we were swept up in the cozy, festive vibes of the season, with the crisp air and twinkling lights of the Christmas markets setting the stage for an unforgettable adventure.
Over the course of our trip, we ate our way through traditional Czech fare, sipped beers in centuries-old beer halls, and explored the city’s most iconic landmarks, all while creating memories that will last far beyond our trip. Whether we were strolling across the stunning Charles Bridge, warming up with mulled wine at a holiday market, or picking out quirky souvenirs in a local concept store, every moment in Prague felt like a beautiful blend of history and modernity, making it a destination we can’t wait to revisit again in the future.
So without further ado, here’s the best of what we ate, drank, saw, and did on our winter weekend in Prague this December.
How we got there
We could have easily ridden the line 300 bus to the Amsterdam Airport Schiphol from Haarlem Station, as it’s super close to our new flat—but we were flying out super early in the morning, so we took an Uber there instead.
Once we made it to our gate, we boarded a nonstop flight via KLM to the Vaclav Havel Airport in Prague. (Did that just make anyone else want to break out into a verse of La Vie Boheme? Or just me?)
Where we stayed
I was thrilled that our travel partners for this trip suggested that we stay in a charming Airbnb that was once a monastery.
The location was unbeatable—right in the heart of Nové Město (or “New Town,” in English) close to so many of the restaurants, bars, and shops we had been eager to explore. It was an ideal home base for our trip, allowing us to walk everywhere and experience Prague’s vibrant culture up close.
The combination of the building’s rich history and the modern comforts the host(s) left for us inside made for an unforgettable stay, and it was great to be able to step out the door and immediately immerse ourselves in the bustling city life.
What we ate and drank
For lunch on our first day, we kicked things off at Pizzeria Kmotra Kavárna, where we savored fresh, wood-fired pizza in a cozy, eclectic underground dining room lit by colorful stained glass lamps—a simple yet perfect start to the trip.
From there, it was just a short walk to the historic and celebratory atmosphere at U Fleků, a charming beer hall that’s been serving its famous lager since 1499 (!) from trays carried by men whom we affectionately referred to as our “burly cocktail waitresses.” We had anticipated that this would be a quick stop before naptime for our jetlagged international voyagers, but we ended up spending hours there sipping cold beers, catching up with each other, and enjoying the unique energy of this iconic spot. Easily one of my favorite stops during our stay!
Dinner that night was at Pivovar Národní, where we tucked into a traditional Czech meal that truly highlighted local flavors. The pickled cheese our waiter recommended to us as an appetizer was an absolute standout—sharp, tangy, and perfectly paired with a cold beer, of which we each ordered precisely one (1) liter. No regrets.
Breakfast the next morning came courtesy of Coffee & Riot, a trendy spot where we were able to pick up tasty pastries and lattes to go. We (okay, my partner) brought them back to the Airbnb to enjoy as we slowly booted up for a day of exploring.
Next came a massive lunch at Bohemia Goose, where we were treated to a classic Czech beer-tasting sampler. The food was hearty, the beer selection was impressive, the paintings and figurines of geese everywhere were confounding in a charming way, and we left feeling full and content.
Afternoon drinks took us to the Q Cafe, a queer-friendly bar with a welcoming vibe. We enjoyed a couple of afternoon tipples in this relaxed and inclusive space before making our way around the corner to U Matěje Kotrby Restaurace a Bar for dinner—an intimate spot with expertly prepared Czech dishes. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and we were treated to a meal that was both comforting and full of flavor. Though to be honest, if I could go back in time, I might pass on the shots of plum liquor we all had…
That evening, we wandered over to the Tyl Square Christmas Market (at Tylovo náměstí) where the spiced scents of mulled wine and roasted nuts filled the air. We couldn't resist the absolutely gigantic sausages we spotted at one of the stalls near the entrance, and they turned out to be deliciously festive snacks to enjoy as we soaked in all the holiday cheer around the square.
Following the market, our final stop was at Parlour, a speakeasy-inspired cocktail bar that served up some of the best drinks we had on the trip. The ambiance was sophisticated, and the cocktails—well, they were nothing short of art. There were no menus here; the bartender just asked us what liquor we’d like and what kind of vibe we were going for, then made whatever he came up with. I asked for something gin-based and martini-esque, and the cocktail he brought me did not disappoint.
The next day began with coffee and brunch at Kafe & Hrnky, an eclectic cafe and ceramics studio where the food was as creative as the pottery on display. It was a lovely, unexpected stop on our journey, offering delicious fare in a cozy, artsy environment on our way to the Prague Castle.
Back in the heart of the city, we snacked and sipped our way through the Old Town Christmas Market, where the festive vibes could be experienced with all five senses simultaneously. I heard the sounds of choirs singing, smelled treats of all sorts being fried and toasted and brewed, saw twinkling light displays at every turn, and tasted the sweet nectar of a Czech pilsner on my tongue as I snuggled up in my coat, scarf, and gloves to stay warm in the frosty air. We each found culinary delights suited to our tastes—I got grilled cheese, Andrew raved about a melt-in-your-mouth pork dish, Julien was pleasantly surprised by a selection of filled dumplings, and MaryClaire’s grin stretched from ear to ear when she bit into her spiralized potato on a stick.
The next day, after our travel partners headed to their next destination in Vienna, we ventured to Rybka Café and Bookshop, a peaceful haven with delicious brunch offerings and a great selection of books. It was the perfect way to wind down our trip, sitting there and reading while alternating between snacks and beer until it was time to make our way to the airport to head back home to Haarlem.
Each meal, each drink, felt like an invitation into the heart of Prague's culture—a city where every bite is a story, and every sip is an experience to savor.
Where we went
We started our adventure with a visit to Bohéma, a gorgeous concept store tucked away in a quiet corner of the city. This wasn’t your typical tourist trap, but rather a thoughtfully curated shop full of unique, Czech-inspired pieces of decor, apparel, and more. We couldn’t resist picking up a set of beautifully crafted matches as a memento—a small, design-forward piece to remind us of our time in Prague when we’re back home.
One of the most memorable moments of our trip was the walk across the Charles Bridge, which connects the Old Town to the lesser-known New Town. As we wandered, the bridge’s centuries-old statues and breathtaking views of the city’s skyline made the entire journey feel like stepping into history itself.
Next, we embarked uphill on what I’ll refer to as a “hike” to Prague Castle, a majestic complex that’s been standing for over a thousand years. A whole millennium! The climb was worth every step—at the top, we toured the St. Vitus Cathedral, marveling at its soaring Gothic architecture and stained glass windows. We also wandered through the Old Royal Palace, soaked in the quiet grandeur of St. George’s Basilica, and meandered down the enchanting Golden Lane, a tiny, colorful street that’s like stepping into a fairytale (or at least, it would have with about half as many tourists squeezing through it).
On that same side of the river, a visit to the Lennon Wall was a must, obviously. This vibrant, ever-changing canvas of graffiti, peace messages, and Beatles references captures Prague’s spirit of rebellion and hope. It was an uplifting moment to stand there and take in the creativity and history that have made this wall such a powerful symbol. I saw a totally different version of the wall when I visited Prague ten years ago—and I hope I’ll get the chance to return in 10 more years from now to see how it changes between now and then, too.
We also checked out the Tyl Square Christmas Market, which was just as charming and full of the same warm, cozy atmosphere (though of course, no Astronomical Clock). It was the sweetest way to embrace the start of the holiday season and wrap up our adventures in Prague.
And of course, we couldn’t leave without exploring the Old Town Christmas Market—it’s everything you dream of in a holiday market, with twinkling lights, festive treats, and handcrafted goods. While we were there, we couldn’t help but stop in awe at the Astronomical Clock, one of Prague’s most iconic landmarks. As the clock struck the hour, a small crowd gathered to witness its magical display. The clock, with its intricate design and celestial motifs, comes to life with a mechanical performance that includes the movement of figures like the skeleton ringing the bell and the procession of apostles. It’s a moment of pure charm, drawing both locals and visitors in with its timeless beauty. Standing there, surrounded by the festive market and the glow of holiday lights, it felt like we were part of something truly special—a reminder of Prague’s rich history and the little bits of wonder the city offers around every corner.
Each of these experiences was a reminder of how Prague is a city that lets you savor both the past and the present, blending history, culture, and modern life into something truly magical.
Bonus: A non-touristy Google Map of Prague!
In case you’d like to follow in our footsteps, here’s an easy-to-use Google Map with all of restaurants, cafes, shops, and other sites that this guide mentions.
Where to next?
Taking a peek at my calendar, upcoming trips from Amsterdam on the docket will include:
Holiday happenings here in Haarlem with neighborhood pals
An underground Christmas Market in Valkenburg between Christmas and New Year’s
Come 2025, I’ll begin prepping for book launch events in the UK and US to start—those dates and locations will be shared soon, so stay tuned.
Where are you traveling next? Any destinations you’ve visited recently that you’d recommend for a queer, neurodivergent travel writer like me? Let me know in the comments. Na zdraví!